A Tourbillon, According to Frederique Constant
Frederique Constant’s green dial tourbillon proves that modern Geneva watchmaking can still value restraint and substance.
Spend enough time around complicated watches, and certain patterns become familiar. Tourbillons are often framed as objects of excess, either visually or conceptually, positioned to impress at first glance rather than to reward longer ownership.
Frederique Constant has spent the better part of two decades challenging that assumption, and the Classic Tourbillon Manufacture with green dial is a clear continuation of that thinking rather than a departure from it.
The foundation for this model was laid in 2023, when the brand quietly revised the proportions and architecture of its Classic Tourbillon Manufacture case.
That redesign introduced a more sculptural profile, subtle curvature and improved wearability, first seen in precious metal editions produced in limited numbers.
The steel version with green dial builds on that work, demonstrating how a familiar platform can be refined without being reinvented.
The 39 millimetre steel case feels deliberate rather than cautious. It avoids the nostalgia trap of going too small while steering clear of the visual weight that often accompanies modern, complicated watches.
Polishing is executed with restraint, allowing the case to catch light without becoming reflective to the point of distraction. The onion crown, a detail borrowed from historical pocket watches, is integrated naturally and serves as a reminder that classical references do not need to announce themselves loudly.
Attention inevitably settles on the dial. Green has become a popular choice across the industry, but its execution here is notably controlled. The palm green sunburst finish shifts subtly depending on lighting, sometimes appearing nearly black, at other times revealing a richer depth.
This variability gives the watch a different presence across environments, a quality that becomes more apparent over time rather than immediately.
The tourbillon at six o’clock is presented with clarity and confidence. Frederique Constant has resisted the temptation to overemphasise the complication, instead allowing it to sit within the dial as a functional element.
The seconds indication is mounted directly on the tourbillon cage via a slender hand, maintaining legibility while preserving an unobstructed view of the mechanism. It is a practical solution that also reflects a broader design philosophy focused on balance rather than theatre.
Inside, the FC 980 manufacture calibre reflects the same pragmatic approach. Fully developed and assembled in Geneva, the movement combines traditional finishing techniques with modern engineering, where it serves a clear purpose.
Bevelled bridges, circular graining and polished surfaces are present without excess, while silicon components in the escapement improve resistance to magnetism and temperature variation. This is not innovation for its own sake, but technology applied in a way that aligns with real-world wear.
The transparent caseback invites inspection without demanding it. Those inclined to study the movement will find a level of finishing that feels honest and appropriate to the watch’s positioning.
Each piece is individually numbered, both on the tourbillon and the case, reinforcing the limited nature of the production without leaning on exclusivity as a primary narrative.
Context matters here. Steel tourbillons from Geneva manufactures have increasingly crept into price territory once reserved for precious metal watches. Frederique Constant has chosen not to follow that trajectory, keeping this edition aligned with earlier steel models in the collection.
It is a decision that reinforces the brand’s long-standing commitment to accessibility in high watchmaking, without compromising on in-house development or finishing standards.
Several months after its introduction, the Classic Tourbillon Manufacture in green feels settled in its identity. It is not designed to dominate attention in a display case, nor does it rely on novelty to sustain interest.
Instead, it reveals its strengths gradually, through proportion, wearability and mechanical clarity. For collectors who appreciate complication without excess and design without self-importance, it stands as one of the more quietly convincing tourbillons available today.
