Armin Strom Warms Things Up Without Losing Its Cool
Armin Strom refines its Gravity Equal Force with a salmon-toned mainplate, subtle craft upgrades and the same uncompromising mechanics.
Armin Strom’s approach to new releases tends to be measured. Rather than chasing novelty, the brand usually returns to ideas it has already established, refining them with greater clarity.
The Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Salmon is a good example of that philosophy at work. It does not attempt to redefine the collection, but instead sharpens its focus; technically, visually and conceptually.
The Gravity Equal Force movement remains the central story. When it debuted, it marked a significant milestone for independent watchmaking, as the first automatic calibre to combine a micro-rotor with a stop-work declutch mechanism built directly into the barrel.
The purpose is straightforward: to deliver consistent torque to the balance across the full 72-hour power reserve. This is not complication for complication’s sake, but a practical solution to a long-standing mechanical problem, and one that aligns closely with Armin Strom’s engineering-driven identity.
What distinguishes this new edition is the salmon-coloured PVD mainplate, visible through the sapphire dial. Salmon is a familiar tone in high watchmaking, but here it is used with restraint.
Rather than dominating the design, it brings warmth to an otherwise technical layout, softening the movement’s architectural lines without diluting their precision. The effect is subtle but noticeable, particularly in contrast to earlier, cooler-toned versions.
The mainplate’s hand-guilloché pattern, created in collaboration with Kari Voutilainen, adds another layer of interest. It is a detail that rewards closer inspection, reinforcing the fact that beneath the contemporary presentation lies traditional craftsmanship.
Throughout the Calibre ASB19, hand-finishing is executed to a high standard, from polished bevels and black-polished screws to Geneva stripes and perlage, all of which are completed in-house in Biel/Bienne.
The micro-rotor continues to play a key role in the watch’s character. Keeping the movement slim and unobstructed, it allows the mechanics to remain visible from both sides of the case.
This transparency is not merely aesthetic; it reflects Armin Strom’s long-standing belief that the movement should be an active part of the wearing experience.
Cased in stainless steel and measuring 41mm, the watch wears comfortably, given the visual complexity of the dial. A grey nubuck leather strap keeps the overall look understated, while faceted, luminescent hands ensure clarity without visual excess.
Limited to 25 pieces per year and priced at CHF 27,500, the Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Salmon will appeal to collectors who value thoughtful engineering and careful evolution over spectacle.
It is a quiet update, but a confident one; evidence of a brand that knows exactly where its strengths lie.
