Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Latest Masterpieces in the Pursuit of Precision

Jaeger-LeCoultre continues its pursuit of precision in both mechanics and design with three new expressions of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985.

Two are presented in platinum with striking blue dials; one framed by a polished bezel, the other elevated with a diamond-set bezel featuring 72 baguette-cut stones totalling 3.4 carats. The third arrives in 18-carat pink gold, its warmth enhanced by a soft brown dial.

At the heart of each piece lies Calibre 985, a movement developed in 2013 that unites a perpetual calendar and moon phase accurate for 122 years with the mesmerising spectacle of a flying tourbillon equipped with a cylindrical hairspring.

The guiding spirit of Jaeger-LeCoultre has always been precision. Antoine LeCoultre, who founded the Maison in 1833, was consumed by accuracy, not only in the design of calibres but also in their finishing, assembly and decoration. His devotion set a standard that has inspired every generation since.

This pursuit is crystallised in Calibre 985. The regulating organ, balance wheel, hairspring and escapement defines a watch’s accuracy, and here it is perfected with a cylindrical hairspring.

Unlike conventional flat springs, the cylindrical form breathes concentrically, neutralising the disruptive effects of gravity and magnetism.

First invented in 1776 and long forgotten, it has been revived by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers, who are among the very few in the world able to shape hairsprings entirely in-house.

Calibre 985 is composed of 431 parts, a marvel of complexity and refinement. The flying tourbillon alone consists of 83 components yet weighs a mere 0.386 grams, crafted in titanium for lightness and stability.

On the reverse side, a sapphire caseback reveals immaculate finishing: sunrayed Côtes de Genève, snailing, blued screws and delicate hand-bevelling.

The 22-carat rose gold rotor is engraved with a reproduction of the gold medal awarded to Antoine LeCoultre at the Great Exhibition in London in 1851; a quiet reminder that heritage and innovation have always coexisted at La Grande Maison.

The Master Grande Tradition case is reserved only for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most complex calibres. Constructed from more than 80 components, it is a triumph of design, combining polished, brushed and micro-blasted surfaces with screwed-in lugs.

Each version tells a different story. The pink gold edition offers a glow of warmth and intimacy, while the platinum models bring a cooler elegance to the wrist. The diamond-set bezel, crafted through 15 hours of meticulous gem-setting in the Métiers Rares atelier, transforms precision into spectacle.

On the dial, every detail has been considered: opaline sub-dials that shift tone with the light, micro-blasted peripheries, laser-engraved numerals in relief. A hand-bevelled bridge crosses the dial, drawing the eye to the tourbillon aperture.

Even the seconds are elevated; marked on a 20-second arc by three blued hands mounted on the tourbillon cage as it completes its graceful 60-second rotation.

The Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 is a declaration of mastery. Every component, from the cylindrical hairspring to the hand-set diamonds, speaks of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s devotion to precision, craftsmanship and beauty.