Moonphase, Minus the Moonshine: Armand Nicolet’s Surprise Hit
A restrained Swiss moonphase from Armand Nicolet, blending classical proportions, credibility and understated luxury.
Armand Nicolet has long appealed to collectors who value watchmaking substance over recognition.
Founded in 1875 in Tramelan, the brand has maintained a consistent commitment to traditional Swiss horology, often favouring refinement and proportion over novelty.
The A740L AG BP22740MAM, part of the M02 Moonphase collection, reflects that philosophy with clarity.
The stainless steel case measures 41 millimetres in diameter and remains comfortably slim at just under 12 millimetres. It sits confidently on the wrist without tipping into excess, a balance that is increasingly difficult to achieve in contemporary dress watches.
Finishing is clean and classical, with softly shaped lugs that emphasise wearability rather than presence.
The silver guilloché dial is restrained and well judged. Applied hour markers add depth without distraction, while the date aperture at three o’clock is integrated with care.
The moonphase display is the focal point, positioned with symmetry and executed in a traditional style that feels appropriate rather than ornamental. It serves as a reminder of the complication’s historical role within fine watchmaking rather than an attempt at visual theatre.
Inside, the watch is powered by a Swiss automatic movement based on the Sellita SW 280, adapted by Armand Nicolet to accommodate the moonphase and date functions.
With a power reserve of approximately 38 hours and a sapphire exhibition case back, it offers mechanical transparency and reliability without unnecessary embellishment.
A brown alligator embossed calf leather strap softens the overall aesthetic and enhances versatility, allowing the watch to transition easily between formal and relaxed settings. Water resistance is rated at 50 metres, reinforcing its role as a refined daily wearer rather than a specialist instrument.
Positioned in the low four-figure price range, the A740L AG BP22740MAM offers a level of complication and finishing that often demands a higher premium elsewhere. Its appeal lies not in exclusivity by volume or branding, but in thoughtful execution and long-term wearability.
For collectors drawn to quiet confidence and classical proportions, Armand Nicolet’s moonphase presents a compelling alternative to more familiar names, and a reminder that discretion remains one of the most enduring expressions of luxury.
